This marked the decline in cosmetics, as due to religious beliefs cosmetics questioned ones morality. Wearing such makeup would lead to assumptions that a person would be a prostitute, or an actress, which came under the same category in the social hierarchy. Morals were dominant in this era, causing modesty and sexual restraint to be expected. But this did not mean that the higher classes did not wear any cosmetics. Natural tones to cover impurities in the skin were used, as the Victorians, much alike the Elizabethans, aimed for a pale complexion to show their nobility. The higher classes and nobles did not have to work outside, so would not achieve any sort of colour to their skin. A tan was looked down upon, and seen as 'vulgar'. Some women even drew on their veins to create a translucent effect on their skin, whilst some emphasised their dark circles using rouge tints on their lips and cheeks. The texture of their skin was supposed to look as natural as possible, so little powder was used to maintain a glow. Lemon and Vinegar were applied or consumed to keep a pale complexion, alongside keeping out of the sun at all costs.
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| Queen Victoria in her Coronation robes. There is clear use of makeup here used to achieve a pale complexion, whilst carmine is used to create rosy cheeks and lips. George Hayter - 'Queen Victoria, (1819-1901) Reigned 1837-1901' 1860, Oil on Canvas. 201.5(H) X 150.5(W) National Archives |
The cosmetics used on their faces were still poisonous, but a lot less poisonous to that of the Elizabethan Era. Zinc Oxide, a mineral powder, was used to achieve a paler complexion, whilst 'Creme Celeste', a mix of white wax, almond oil, rosewater and spermaceti (derived from an organ inside a sperm whale's head) became popular. This paste hid blemishes, as well as moisturising properties for a smooth complexion. As part of their daily routine, ladies would have high-plucked eyebrows, trimmed eyelashes and a coat of castor oil on their eyelids. Rice powder, Zinc Oxide or the most expensive Pearl Powder (Talc and Chloride of Bismuth) were used to achieve their pale skin, and hide freckles and blemishes. Clear pomade (beeswax) was used for a natural dewy lips, whilst some ladies discreetly used crushed flowers and cochineal to accentuate the rosy warmth. Cochineal was also used to massage into the cheeks, to achieve a healthy complexion, and not look washed out. The Victorians went even further to drop lemon or orange juice in their eyes to brighten them, however this was not all. Some ladies would drop poisonous belladonna into their eyes, which dilated the pupils but clouded vision. This was a treatment for cataracts at the time, Queen Victoria using it heavily during her health decline. 'Fallen women' used black or red eye paint (or eyeshadow), made of lead tetroxide, mercuric sulphide, cinnabar, vermillion, alongside many other ingredients, poisonous or not. Respectable ladies would secretly use black or red on their eyelids too, often using black as eyeliner, however to ask a lady if she was wearing cosmetics would be terribly insulting. Beeswax could be applied to the lashes, covered in a dusting of coal or soot to darken them. It was looked down upon so much that women would have secret compartments in their toilet chests, to hide their cosmetics.
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| Left- Apothecary chest with hidden compartment. Right - Chest with concealed bottom for jars of cosmetics. ('Early Victorian Era Makeup; Cosmetics and Embellishments'. Kate Tattersall, 2011, (online) viewed 21st January 2015, available from http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735) |
Hair was treated as a woman's pride and glory, as it was rarely cut. Women had long locks, and sometimes used false hair to add to their own. The hair was pulled back into a bun, often called an 'Apollo's Knot', with a middle parting at the front with each side forming long ringlets that reached the chin. The hair was sleek and tidy, often adorned with a slide-in clip to decorate. As the Victorian era moved on, women's hair became longer at the sides. After the death of her husband Arthur, The Queen descended into a life of mourning, only to wear widow clothes, and swapped her crown for a widow's cap. Men wore their hair much shorter than any other historical era, but kept their beards and moustaches. A woman's hair was a symbol of her beauty, security and sexuality. Locks of her hair would be cut only to give her lover, or as an ornament after her death. However, much alike everything to do with a woman, there were believed to have been some dark essence to their hair, and considered a web to entangle, a source of power, or snake-like and poisonous.
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| Woman using her hair to trap a knight in armour. John William Waterhouse - The Beautiful Woman Without Mercy. 1893 - Oil on Canvas. 112 X 81 cm ('The Beautiful Necessity, The Dark Side of Hair' (online)(8th March 2008) viewed 21st January 2015. available from: http://thebeautifulnecessity.blogspot.co.uk/2008/03/dark-side-of-victorian-hair.html) |
From my initial research I have come across the idea that women were looked upon as dark characters, referred to as 'fallen'. I am intrigued to find out whether this belief influenced the Gothic Horror literature, as the ideas I have come across are seemingly dark. The makeup is very similar to that of the Elizabethan era, which I am surprised about as I expected a bigger change in the time, but also it is unsurprising as I have never come across Victorian Makeup as being a new trend for the time, where the Elizabethan makeup was.
('The Beautiful Necessity, The Dark Side of Hair' (online)(8th March 2008) viewed 21st January 2015.
available from: http://thebeautifulnecessity.blogspot.co.uk/2008/03/dark-side-of-victorian-hair.html)
('Early Victorian Era Makeup; Cosmetics and Embellishments'. Kate Tattersall, 2011, (online) viewed 21st January 2015, available from http://www.katetattersall.com/?p=3735)
(Victoria's Marriage, Wikipedia. Viewed 21st January 2015. Available from: 'http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen_Victoria#Marriage')
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