Late Victorian Hairstyles

Victorian Woman, circa 1870.
The Pragmatic Costumer

As previously discussed, the Victorian hairstyles changed throughout the period. In 1870-1890, the hairstyles had become very romantic, loose and softer. The hair remained curled and long, although the curls were moved to the back of the head, rather than worn previously on the sides of the face. The style was sleek at the sides, pinned back towards the high bun at the back of the head. Curly fringes came into fashion, but if the fringe was not naturally curly enough, ladies would buy hair pieces for this part of the hairstyle. The fringes were not the only hair piece available to women. 'Switch' hair pieces were made widely, and in different sizes. For example, a 3 stem switch would be ideal for plaiting, due to the three parts of hair.

Ten illustrations of different wig and hair pieces available in the Victorian Era.
Coloured engraving, 1st May 1875.
Wellcome Library, London. Wellcome Images

The late Victorian hair mirrored the social changes and aspirations caused by the Industrial Revolution, causing more middle class people shopping in department stores, and inspiring the ladies of this class. Hairpieces were becoming more readily available to the middle classes, which then the ladies would fashion their hair around these. Hats were a symbol of status and authority, and became much more elaborate in the late Victorian Era. Birds were a popular choice of decoration in their hats. With hats being worn much more than before, hairstyles had to adapt to this. Early Victorians wore bonnets with a low/mid bun, and the late Victorians had to move the bun up under the hat. Top hats and tall silk hats were worn by the men on formal occasions, but towards the 1870's, more hats became socially appropriate to wear.

1871
“Le Monde élégant.”
Plate 122.
Fashion plates, 1790-1929.
The Costume Institute Fashion Plates.

(The Pragmatic Costumer, 'The Myth of a Myth: Brushing your Hair 100 Times', (online), 17th September 2014. [viewed 3rd February 2015] available from:https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2014/09/17/the-myth-of-a-myth-brushing-your-hair-100-times/) 

Hair Practical

In this week's hair practical, we worked on our heads, creating late Victorian hairstyles.

1. Start by creating a clean centre parting. 

2. Section the front of the hair using a pintail comb, from just behind the ear, right over the top of the head, to the other. Pin these sections up as you will be dealing with them last.

 

3. With the back section, section a horseshoe shape from the top of the back of the head, and tie up, creating a ponytail. 

4. Curl the ponytail, and pin up around the bun, creating a bundle of curls in the shape of a bun. 

5. Curl the bottom section of the hair, pinning some strands up loosely and leaving some down.

6. With the two sections at the front of the hair, starting at the centre, curl along the parting, not downwards, to create barrel curls. Repeat until you have curled roughly 3 inches. Leave to cool to set the curl.

7. With the remaining hair, curl, then section the back half and pin it close to the bun. With the remaining hair, sweep sleekly alongside the head, and pin near the bun. 

8. Using the curls onto of the head, create a wave that moves towards the back of the head. 

Ageing the Hair 

As part of the lesson today we also looked at how to age hair. You can use a range of products, including the Supra/Aqua Colours by Kryolan, or Batiste Dry Shampoo. With the Aqua/Supra Colours, create a very pale flesh colour. The reason behind the flesh colour and not using white is that because the white can be too extravagant and very unnatural. This may be good to experiment when deciding on looks for Miss Havisham. When you have your chosen colour, comb through the hair using a mascara wand, sponge or even and old toothbrush, so that all the strands are reached. Using dry shampoo is an easier alternative for the model as it is easier to get out, just by brushing. Just spritz the hair with the dry shampoo, creating a dusty-powdery effect on the hair, which I believe Miss Havisham's hair would be. Below I used dry shampoo and different distances to give a heavier and lighter effect within the hair.